曼谷的咖喱饭店(Ran Khao Kaeng):拿着就行了亚搏娱乐app


当时才五点半。但黑暗。Then I remembered that the sun set early in the winter in this country.从整个停车场望去,远处一座灯火通明的大楼里挤满了人,我知道有没有合适的地方,this must have been it.

过了一会儿,手里拿着一个塑料托盘,I found myself in a new world.我从来没有在好莱坞电影或美国情景喜剧中看到过,更不用说亲自体验了。Memories of the random photos I'd seen in my mother's American cookbooks and the random American food names I remembered from my English classes growing up came back in waves.Believe me when I say I was emotional.

食物的分布广泛而丰富。Mashed potatoes with gravy.肉汁鸡排也是另一种,白色和乳状,有黑胡椒的斑点。玉米面包。通心粉和奶酪。玉米面煎炸秋葵对我来说是全新的。Pasta salad—the kind I'd heard Americans liked to eat at summer picnics.Green beans and broccoli florets boiled until they were soft and silky.松软的面包卷。Pot roast.Buttered corn cobs.Liver with onions.Black-eyed peas.羽衣甘蓝。炒饭。

这里的食物很便宜。For less than $10,我可以得到我想要的任何东西,无论我多么想要。是因为当你摆脱多余的东西时,你就能够降低成本吗?我的思绪回到了我的亲戚们招待我去高档酒店吃昂贵的饭菜的时代,这些饭菜是由住在曼谷或经过曼谷参加特殊活动的著名美国厨师准备的。亚搏娱乐appWere those meals a rip-off,我们被诱骗花更多钱的花招?But was the food good?与我小时候在家乡曼谷吃过的美国菜相比,亚搏娱乐appit was excellent.

Looking around,I saw folks wearing casual,舒适的衣服。母亲们。婴儿。Strollers.围嘴。高脚椅。老年夫妇走进来,手拉手。孩子们在吃巧克力蛋糕;一些人聚集在巧克力喷泉周围。Most people looked like they lived in the neighborhood and had been coming here for years.Everybody seemed to know where to get their plates and silverware and which station to go to in order to get which dish.Everything and everyone brought to mind words like"本地,““real,““authentic,““谦逊的。”这个地方绝对不是旅游陷阱;如果有的话,看起来像螺旋装订的教堂食谱我母亲是从她美国朋友的院子里买的重获新生。For me as a new international student,this was as close to experiencing real,在可预见的未来,我将要做的美国家庭烹饪。

Gosh,I loved Golden Corral.

但是我能把它描述成一个寻找最好的地方吗?the most authentic food in America?Knowing what I know now,不。

Ran Khao Kaeng
字面翻译,不考虑语义,术语ran khao kaeng(ร้านข้าวแกง) is both incomplete and misleading.没有文化背景的快速浏览,,ran khao kaeng,due to their ubiquity in 亚搏娱乐appBangkok,通常引导游客做出不一定与当地人的看法一致的假设。但当一个人理解并欣赏ran khao kaeng不管他们是什么样的人,也不会有人看到这些简陋的商店可以是任何东西,从救命者到怀旧舒适的地方,再到一个可管理的学习和探索空间,对于没有太多时间来体验泰国美食的游客来说。


ran khao kaengthe places where you go for curry on rice?好,对,但这不是全部。
包含三个单词,,(商店),khao(rice),和(咖喱),ran khao kaeng字面意思是”买大米和咖喱。”“

The"curry"part of the term"咖喱饭店”often misleads those unfamiliar with the concept into thinking that curries are the only rice accompaniments (read about"rice accompaniments"inSimple Thai Food,pages 33-37) on offer.如果你熟悉曼谷的饮食文化,亚搏娱乐appyou're probably rolling your eyes right about now,感谢我在一个明亮的地方熄灯。但是,嘿,假设我已经学会了不去假设。

This is where it's helpful to know that突触are just as prevalent in the Thai language as they are in many other languages.正如“面包”在“give us today our daily bread"is a synecdoche,代表食物,而不仅仅是面包,“也是”““(curry) inran khao kaenga synecdoche,代表所有的米饭伴奏,而不仅仅是咖喱。(在这种情况下,“rice-curry"甚至可以归类为一对Siamese twins(HEH)但这里是正切的。)

大米,as the name suggests,是任何咖喱饭店的主食。这并不奇怪,因为大米是典型的泰国菜的主要成分(更多见简单的泰国菜,第33页)。许多商店也提供khanom jin(轮胎式龙门吊:khanom chin),the Southeast Asian fermented (often unfermented these days) rice noodles that form a separate category from Chinese-style noodles,作为平原的额外非水稻选择,starchy blank canvas.(Khanom jinis traditionally paired with just a few accompaniments—most notably green and red curries—so it's not as versatile as rice.) You don't normally find made-to-order one-plate,预制餐,比如面条汤,炒面,甚至是咖喱饭店的炒饭(除非那家店也提供定制食品,,阿汉谭桑,属于完全不同的食物类型)。

回到70年代,when people of my parents' generation were young professionals,there existed a term"“mae ban thung plastic“或者”plastic bag housewife"那是用来形容一个女人用从街上买来的食物喂她的家人(总是用塑料袋包装) as opposed to homemade food which was considered superior.

当有人叫你塑料袋家庭主妇时,他们不认为你是现代人、高效人或聪明人;they're intimating that you're a wife and/or mother who is desperate or incompetent or irresponsible.这个词现在已经不再使用了,but back then it was in vogue,and it was always used in a derogatory sense.

把这种对妇女的期望放在一边是性别歧视还是公平的问题,the fact that this happened—and it's well documented—tells you that,在泰国社会背景下,一般来说,街头食品在历史上并没有被当地人美化过,而且,在历史上,孟加拉人也没有把咖喱店的供应看作是他们最美味的菜肴之一。亚搏娱乐app

近年来,西方媒体对泰国廉价街头食品的夸耀,使当地人一头扎向一边,眉头乱皱。And it doesn't help that while some of us have been doing everything we can to dispel the myth of authenticity and quality being synonymous with rustic locations,有些人非常乐意帮助延续这种思维方式,because they profit from it.

A 亚搏娱乐appBangkokian who grew up in a home where good homemade food was always available in abundance would be able to tell you that most curries at the average rice-curry shop would be less flavorful than what your mother would make at home or thattom kha kaiwould more often than not be made with the"“尾部”of coconut milk (Simple Thai Food,第198页)用水进一步稀释。我的一个叔叔长期以来都在一家米咖店里发誓要戒掉这种又薄又贫血的酸咖喱(阅读更多关于它的信息)here).这个卡伊法罗,braised eggs in spiced soy-based broth,in the photo below may look tempting to some.但是如果你有老式的卡伊法罗,在肉汤里炖上几个小时,味道好极了,调味汁已经渗入蛋黄的白色和内芯。你应该知道卡伊法罗在大多数的咖喱店里,没有什么值得写的。I can count with one hand the places in 亚搏娱乐appBangkok I have found that make the kind of卡伊法罗我认为很好;all of them are restaurants that serve home-style dishes;他们都不是咖喱饭店。


然而,就像黄金畜栏和像它这样的餐厅在美国饮食文化中占有一席之地一样,咖喱饭店也在曼谷的饮食文化中占有一席之地。亚搏娱乐appThey exist to provide quick,inexpensive meals;他们填补了这个城市没有其他食品店试图填补的空白。Rice-curry shops are not the antithesis of what is good and decent about Thai cuisine;他们不是来自天堂的礼物,一些旅游作家也把他们描绘成天堂的礼物。亚搏娱乐appBangkokians know what they are and what they offer,and they set their expectations accordingly.

然而,when one understands and appreciates these rice-curry shops from the locals' perspective,可以看出,在它们的局限性方面,rice-curry shops are a welcome part of the 亚搏娱乐appBangkok's food scene.原因如下。

1。They're convenient and affordable.
Whatever benefits you get out of fast-food restaurants in the Western countries are pretty much the same benefits 亚搏娱乐appBangkokians get out of rice-curry shops.Many office workers eat breakfast and lunch there;they may even buy food to-go on the way home as well.Cheap meals.All day availability.无论您身在何处,都能轻松进入。Wide variety of dishes to choose from.旋转菜单。不喜欢什么?Also,what would school and office cafeterias be without rice-curry shops??

过去,the religious ones among Buddhist 亚搏娱乐appBangkokians would wake up before dawn to prepare homemade dishes to offer to the monks who would do their morning alms rounds in the neighborhoods within walking radius of their temples.这些天,the foods offered to the monks are usually purchased from the nearest rice-curry shop.

The fact that many young professionals in 亚搏娱乐appBangkok these days live in a condo with just a small kitchen,with a one- or two-burner stove and a wimpy exhaust fan,means most of them don't cook.Rice-curry shops come in handy.

The type of food that a typical rice-curry shop offers is home-style food.This makes rice-curry shops perfect for those who have long been away from"home."Literally,this includes transplants who still have their roots and family members in other parts of the country.曼谷有很多米咖喱店,专门做南方菜,亚搏娱乐appnortheastern dishes,and—this is rare,however—northern dishes.如果你找对地方,不管你从小吃什么地方菜,你可以在曼谷的家里找到大多数菜肴。亚搏娱乐appFiguratively,这也适用于不再与父母住在一起的人。渴望家的味道却不能做饭,they rely on rice-curry shop offerings for the most affordable substitutes to home-cooked dishes.Same for those who grew up in a household where nobody cooks;咖喱饭店价格便宜,方便地接触到他们错过的家常菜。

三。They're a great place for visitors to explore and discover Thai dishes.
If you're a visitor to 亚搏娱乐appBangkok who loves but is new to Thai food,咖喱饭店,with its vast spread of dishes on display,是一个可以同时接触许多菜肴的地方,泰国以外的泰国餐馆的菜单上找不到大多数菜肴。

咖喱饭店也是练习作曲的好地方。samrap(简单的泰国菜,page 33) the way the Thais would—with various flavors,纹理,以及一致性。在这里你会注意到一道菜是如何端上来的,有什么边。例如,你可能会注意到某些蔬菜菜有一种辣椒酱,但没有另一种。等。

另外,as a visitor,除非你有在家做饭的孟加拉朋友,亚搏娱乐app你不太可能体验到家庭式的泰国烹饪——这个世界对非本地人来说通常是不透明的。咖喱饭店提供的食物是最接近那种在典型的班戈基亚家庭中比在餐馆中更常见的食物。亚搏娱乐appWhen I first came to the United States,我,too,learned a lot about American food from all the trips to Golden Corral.


第一,环顾四周,看看是那种只卖食物的咖喱饭店,还是那种能让你进餐的店。If it's a to-go only situation,simply point at what you want and they'll put it in a bag for you.It would be a good idea to buy some rice from them too since most of the dishes are meant to be eaten with rice.在这种情况下,您购买的每一种大米辅料将分别放在塑料袋或聚苯乙烯泡沫塑料盒中。大米也将分开包装。假设你会把所有这些东西带回家,重新加热,然后以家庭的方式为它们服务,即将各种大米辅料放在中间的单独容器中共享,并将大米放在每个人的个人盘子上。


1。You can dine fast-food style,meaning you ask for rice accompaniments (typically 2 complementary different dishes) on top of rice thereby composing a one-plate meal (Simple Thai Food,page 119) of your own.(Think of it as a mini-samrap在盘子里)如果你想要汤,是清淡的还是辛辣的tom yam-更常见的做法是把它单独放在一个小碗里,因为用勺子把它放在另一个米饭旁边的米饭上,只会让所有的东西都变得湿滑。

2.你可以让他们把米饭的辅料放在单独的碗里。这就是人们和朋友一起吃饭时经常做的事情:他们点了多种互补的米饭。Each person has his/her own plate of rice,每个人都在中心分享米饭的伴奏。当你像这样吃家常菜的时候,you usually end up paying considerably more (then again,在一家咖喱饭店,很可能你不会因为一顿饭而失去毕生的积蓄。

在大多数咖喱饭店,you pay after you've finished the meal.

My favorite rice-curry shops in the city??
城里很难找到好的咖喱饭店,知道该去哪里有帮助。在我看来,the majority of rice-curry shops on the sidewalks or inside wet markets are usually mediocre.你想要更优质的咖喱米店,you need to prepare to pay more.即使在咖喱饭店,通常都很便宜,you get what you pay for.

据我所知,the measuring rod with which 亚搏娱乐appBangkokians tend to use to judge how good a rice-curry shop is how close its offerings are to home cooking (the same criterion they use to judgepinto services).I use the same criterion.

The list of my favorite rice-curry shops in 亚搏娱乐appBangkok is longer than this.Here are just a few that are easier to travel to than others,无特殊顺序:
1。Kanchana(กาญจนา) on the portion of Charoen Krung Road between Sathon and Silom (just a short distance away from Saphan Taksin BTS),对面是罗宾逊·邦拉克。
2.杰普(________)又叫音乐椅咖喱饭店,在唐人街的芒孔路(电话(02)2225229,(081)8547110)。Note: Their卡恩卡里("yellow curry") either with beef and beef tendon or 亚搏娱乐pork with winter melon is among the things you shouldn't miss.
三。Jio公司(จิ๋ว),在Charoen Krung 43入口附近,opposite the Central Post Office (Tel.(084)6405775)。Note: Jio isn't known as a rice-curry shop;事实上,它以清真菜肴闻名。但是他们提供传统的泰国菜。他们的鲶鱼绿咖喱(kaeng khiao wan pla duk)是迄今为止我所发现的最好的城市之一。
4.克鲁瓦夫,斐柴路199号(电话:(02)2431808)注:与成熟的咖喱饭店相比,这里更像是一家餐厅/自助餐厅,但是他们也有一个区,在那里你可以点米饭,上面有准备好的菜肴,用勺子从火锅里舀出来。Don't miss their crispy fishphat 亚搏娱乐网页版登陆phrik khing卡恩卡里,aka"yellow curry,“鸡肉真的很好吃。Their卡伊法罗不是我所拥有的最好的,但是很好。
5。宋波卡那(สมทรงโภชนา) in Bang Lamphu area (Tel.(080)4443110) Note: you need to end your meal with their pandan-flavored sorghum pudding with salted coconut cream.
6。李福耀(ข้าวแกงผู้ใหญ่ลี),10 SOI SAP SN,in Wang Burapha (Tel.(02)2223255) Note: Don't miss their spicy frog stir-fry and spicy catfish stir-fry.
7。Im Aroi(ข้าวแกงอิ่มอร่อย) inside Lung Perm Market behind Thai Airways International Headquarters on Vibhavadi Rangsit Road.

孔康伍德赛德大街76-20号埃尔姆赫斯特NY 11373 (Tel.(718)806—1807)
IMMM大米及其他百老汇大街4949号芝加哥,IL 60640 (Tel.(773) 293-7378)

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