问Saksith Saiyasombutabout Thai food in Germany and he'll probably heave a sigh.我知道，因为当我最近向汉堡的自由撰稿人和政治评论员提起这个话题时，他的直接反应就是：一声长叹，轻柔而持久。It didn't strike me as one of displeasure;如果有的话，更像是默许，微弱的耸肩声再一次，这是我们在电话交谈中唯一的叹息。也许我不应该从一个偶然事件中赚太多。
我想我知道那个叹息。最近，当我在马德里一家泰国餐馆和朋友吃饭时，看到去年的一张照片时，我搬了几张。It was a photo of the saddest chicken satay I'd ever had.It was dry and meagerly seasoned and came daubed with a thick peanut sauce that I'm convinced double-dutied as their matsaman curry as both of them tasted identical.There was no黄瓜洋葱酱在望。Curiously,取而代之的是一碗清澈如水晶的简单糖浆，里面空空如也。它看起来忧心忡忡，好像，day after day,it had been searching for its赖森·D·特雷而且，day after day,coming up empty.In the midst of that quiet sorrow,the syrup might have even heaved a sigh.
再一次，据说这家餐馆是当地人的最爱之一。所以，if doing satay this way keeps them in business,我们该说什么？Do we form food traditions only to be dictated by them?Bad satay,似乎，倾向于让你灵魂探索。
无论如何，Saksith's reaction stands in stark contrast to the excitement over the state of Thai food in the United States that colors many conversations I've had lately with fellow food writers,朋友，and anyone who cares to discuss the topic with me.Thai restaurants in larger American cities have come a long way in the past several years;the gap between the Thai food you can get in Thailand and the Thai food you can get in the US is the smallest it has ever been.But I don't think I can make a fair assessment of where things are in Europe based on just a few Thai restaurants I've visited in seven European countries.
““记得去年的曼谷邮报亚搏娱乐app？“萨克西问我。他提到了国家食品研究所2014年的调查结果伊桑烤猪肉沙拉，亚搏娱乐，nam tok moo[SiC]，the top favorite Thai restaurant dish in the European Union and the United States as reported by the亚搏娱乐app曼谷邮报.““I was like—no way."Saksith wasn't convinced that most Europeans knew ofnam tok mufrom their local Thai restaurants or even had this regional dish there regularly enough to crown it their top favorite Thai dish.““你很难在德国找到任何一家专门供应泰国菜的餐馆，更不用说当地的泰国菜了。，“他补充说。
Saksith接着讲述了在曼谷与Newsasia频道合作期间的经历，亚搏娱乐appback in 2011,when he moseyed into the food court of one of the city's poshest malls and stumbled upon考索，a northern Thai dish he'd heard about but never before seen in person.Long story short: he came;他看见了；he ate;他喜欢。为什么他花了这么长时间才发现一种最受欢迎的地方泰国菜？““好，you know，“Saksith sounded like he was about to heave another sigh but decided against it.““I hadn't found it anywhere in Germany."“
公平地说，，考索在曼谷也不容易找到。亚搏娱乐app无论如何，我的最初，raw reaction to what he said was half disbelief,半迷茫，and a quarter gloom.But questionable math notwithstanding,我很快意识到：我为什么要看到考索在德国，我几乎想不到Labskausor平克尔大学in Thailand?Then again Germany has a sizable Thai population.Has no one thought of serving regional Thai fare that's faithful to its tradition?毕竟，isn't that what people have already been making at home for themselves?还是因为他们认为德国还没有准备好？？
泰国地区票价，萨克西重申，was far from being ‘a thing' in most of Europe,including Germany.事实上，考虑到在过去几十年中，为了让泰国菜受到德国人的欢迎，人们做了多少营销工作，这可能需要一段时间。但这并不意味着当地的泰国菜不会在那里生产和消费。他告诉我一个泰国社区每周在柏林的一个公园组织一次聚会som tamand some other home-style,地方菜。Yet,在向公众提供这种泰国菜方面，that has been just about the extent of it.
萨克西和我继续详细讨论这个问题，我相信我们的聊天内容会在以后的帖子中出现，包括是否现实的问题-或对—to expect a Thai restaurant overseas to regard itself first and foremost as a cultural and culinary ambassador as opposed to simply a business that needs to make profits.
现在，可以肯定地说，我们都同意与当地用餐者沟通的能力是关键。Fluency in the local vernacular is just as important as the ability to speak the ‘business language' eloquently.德国的许多泰国餐馆，according to Saksith,为此奋斗，不能，例如，describe山药，无处不在的泰国烤牛肉沙拉，in any term more eloquent than"肉沙拉说得委婉一点，这对让德国用餐者感到饥饿没有什么作用。我告诉他这个问题不是德国独有的。Cooking skills being equal,those who possess marketing and copywriting skills and know how to court the press and tell strategically-crafted stories have the clear advantage over those who don't.And,令人心碎的，在美国，许多制作美食的泰国流行餐厅没有这些技能。我怀疑在德国也是这样。
但我有没有开发出一个斯米根对Saksith在德国缺乏专门的泰国餐馆表示同情吗？The only way for me to answer this properly is a hearty chuckle immediately followed by a deadpan内因.You see,说那个人吃东西wellwould be an understatement.Born into a family of restaurateurs who established the first Thai restaurant in the city of Bremen,Saksith was that one kid in his hometown who was constantly surrounded by the abundance of great Thai food.虽然这家餐馆经营了30年，现在已经不营业了，由泰国厨师（他父亲）抚养，a restaurant manager (his mother),and a former Thai chef (his grandmother) means when it comes to food,萨克西的洞察力和政治领域一样敏锐。And though he was born and grew up in Germany,his parents had exposed him to all things Thai through numerous visits to Thailand since he was a toddler.A picky eater,little Saksith didn't find Thai dishes appealing at first.Soon after,however,he had a fated meeting with a bowl oftom kha kai，泰国菜成了他童年的一部分Sesamstraße.
当萨克斯对德国的泰国菜和泰国餐馆进行观察时，as you can now see,they were all based on first-hand experience.He had witnessed just about every side of the Thai restaurant business overseas: the glory,辛劳，欢乐，斗争，不确定性，竞争的一切。这就是为什么他对德国没有专门的泰国餐馆或地区泰国菜的评论，尽管弗兰克充满了同情心，缺乏判断力。
我问萨克斯他最喜欢吃的泰国菜和做的泰国菜。This time,没有一声叹息。相反，the tone of his radio-quality voice suddenly turned sprightly;his speech picked up tempo;他的形容词变得更加丰富多彩。当萨克西描述烤鸭和烤排骨时，我发现自己饿得喘不过气来。亚搏娱乐especially the 亚搏娱乐pork ribs他父亲每天都为餐馆做准备。The whole family lived in the same century-old building where their restaurant was housed,而且，growing up,萨克西每次经过厨房都会想偷一根肋骨。Who can blame him?？
But the dish he's been making most frequently ever since he started cooking for himself is the classic 亚搏娱乐pork satay with peanut sauce.““This is the first Thai dish I ever ate regularly as a kid and,of course,你还记得吗？，“Saksith said.
他的猪肉沙爹和花生酱的食谱和我的相似。亚搏娱乐19-20页),though Saksith uses ready-made curry powder that comprises ground turmeric,胡芦巴种子，胡荽籽，孜然籽，用茴香籽做腌料。He reinforces it with garlic,salt,白胡椒粉，chili powder,and brown sugar.
德国人喜欢沙爹和花生酱吗？Is this something that they would have an easy time embracing?萨克西是这么想的。““Grilled meat on a stick is always a safe bet,“他说。“In my experience,德国人喜欢吃很多有酱汁的饭菜，and the peanut sauce fits the bill."尽管萨克西认为德国人对花生的热爱没有美国人那么深，他看到了味道，沙爹沙司的乳脂味，对德国味觉有吸引力，德国味觉已经熟悉几种传统的乳脂沙司。““轻微的刺鼻的暗示和热度[花生酱]“异国情调”在舒适区是否足够？，“他补充说。
为了向我的被采访者表示敬意，我想我会把他小时候喜欢吃的菜拼凑起来，即烧烤排骨，亚搏娱乐and the dish he likes to make at home,即猪肉沙爹和花亚搏娱乐生酱。I've created a dry rub out of the spices found in Saksith's favorite brand of curry powder and used it to season baby back ribs.排骨在水壶烤架上慢慢地低煮，直到嫩而冒烟。黄瓜洋葱酱，我在这里用红洋葱代替了传统的小葱。也，不是红辣椒，我用的是古老的大甜椒。That way,你可以像吃色拉一样吃它，而不用太热。
Of course,泰国式的撒旦没有花生酱是不可能存在的，所以你需要做一批我妈妈的花生酱to serve alongside (you don't want to brush the sauce on the ribs;它很容易燃烧，破坏了你的整个干摩擦业务）。最后，you need toast,因为a traditional Thai satay set includes cubed toast.如果你能在当地的面包店或超市找到一条白面包，尽一切办法，用它。理想的，the loaf should come unsliced;that way,you have control over how thick you slice it.But if that proves too much of a hassle,a loaf of pre-sliced soft,白三明治面包就行了（现在，a few satay vendors in 亚搏娱乐appBangkok do that as well).The DIY-minded among you may even want to make your own bread—as do I—in which case,I recommend that you follow my recipe for老式的晚餐卷，把整批面团做成一个面包（而不是按说明把它分成小团），放在一个9×5英寸的面包盘里烘焙，直到上面变成褐色，当你用力敲打时，面包听起来像是空心的。
The presentation of this 亚搏娱乐pork-rib satay is not exactly traditional,but,as you can see,the original flavors are all there.The whole ensemble works so well that I know I will be making it many more times.这将是一个很好的食谱，一个夏天的野餐或一个亲密的晚餐与您的家人在烧烤。In the winter months,你甚至可以在烤箱里烤婴儿的背部肋骨（在架子上，在一个用锡箔松散包裹的烤盘里，at 350°F for about 45 minutes).
- ¾ cup plain white distilled vinegar or apple cider vinegar (no substitute;不要用调味米醋）
- 2 Ancient sweet red peppers or one large red bell peppers
- 1 cup loosely-packed cilantro leaves
- 2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
- 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
- 1 teaspoon dried red chili powder
- 2茶匙红糖（可选，because there's quite a bit of sugar in the peanut sauce already)
- 一条软白面包（见帖子）cut into one-inch slices
- Make the salad dressing by combining the sugar,醋，and salt in a small saucepan and set it over medium heat.搅拌混合物直到糖和盐完全溶解。Cool.当你看敷料的量时，you may wonder if it's enough to dress all the vegetables currently on your kitchen counter.但你会把这个想法抛到一边，因为这就足够了。
- Cut the Ancient sweet red peppers crosswise into ¼-inch rounds (if using a red bell pepper,halve it crosswise,核心ITand cut into ¼-inch slices).转移到一个大碗里。Peel and halve the cucumber crosswise.把每一半纵向切开，每四分之一切成四分之一英寸的薄片。把黄瓜片堆在胡椒片上。Peel and cut the onion lengthwise into ¼-inch slices.Pile them on top of the cucumber slices.把芫荽叶放在上面。用一块塑料薄膜包住碗，让它保持冷冻。
- Put the coriander seeds,孜然籽，胡芦巴种子，and fennel seeds in a dry skillet set over medium-low heat.干杯，stirring constantly,until they become fragrant,大约2-3分钟。Transfer the seeds to a mini-chopper or spice grinder along with the peppercorns;pulverize finely and put the mixture in a bowl.Stir in the ground turmeric,salt,干辣椒粉，和红糖（如果使用）；拌匀。
- Rinse the ribs and pat them very,very dry with paper towel.用干摩擦彻底清洁肋骨外侧。
- Prepare the charcoal grill.让煤燃烧，直到它们变成灰白色。Push them to one side of the grill and arrange the ribs on a well-oiled grate on the side of the grill with no coals.Close the lid.把排骨用间接加热的方法慢慢地煮，flipping them from time to time,在他们完成之前，大约一小时（这在很大程度上取决于许多因素；你真的需要靠耳朵玩耍。Transfer the cooked ribs to a platter.
- 在烤架上烤面包，arranging them on the side with the coals,直到它长出某种颜色，变得硬壳状。
- 把调料倒在沙拉蔬菜上；彻底搅拌。Top it off with cilantro leaves.